Of all the things one can love about Paris, it´s perhaps the closeness to the sea I adore most. The coast of Normandy being only one and a half hour away, a trip to the beach is a totally doable venture for a saturday afternoon. For someone like me who´s never lived anywhere near the ocean before, this continues to be truly fabulous: The sea, its sight, smell and sound, otherwise my material for holiday memories to be treasured for the rest of the year, now they´re almost right at my doorstep.
Last week, we spent a few windy hours of kite flying, building sand castles and bathing at a pleasantly uncrowded Normandy beach. It must have been the not so perfect weather that kept people away that day – it´s still les vacances, the summer holidays, after all. Before returning home, we bought seafood in the village of Trouville, which has become sort of a habit, for the sea never fails to make everyone hungry, and it can´t get any fresher than right where it came to shore.
At the moment, I´m falling for tourteaux, crabs. I love the coral color of the shell, and how that pretty armor bravely defies a predator (like me), who, unless properly skilled, will not be able to seize the treasure hidden within. I like the idea that indulgence requires some effort, a little task to be accomplished, which, as always, makes it even more rewarding. Admittedly, it´s more fun if you have the time, a nice glass of wine and some company. For the following recipe, however, you can also use canned crab meat – it will still taste great.
Crab & pasta gratin (serves 3-4):
1 leek
1 small onion
2 clove garlic
2-3 stalks celery
2 tomatoes
200 g crab meat, from 2-3 fresh cooked crabs* or canned
30 ml white wine
a handful of tarragon, from about 4 sprigs
a pinch of saffron threads
salt, pepper
a dash of piment d´Espelette or mild ground chili
25 g butter
25 g flour
350 ml milk
zest from 1 untreated lemon
salt, pepper, pinch of ground nutmeg
300 g pasta
2 handfuls of (homemade) breadcrumbs
dots of butter
parmesan cheese, grated
*2 crabs of about 800 g each will do, if they´re smaller rather count 3
Slice white part of the leek, the celery stalks, and the garlic cloves. Chop onion. Dice fleshy parts of the tomatoes, discarding most of the kernels and the strunk. Chop tarragon leaflets.
If using live crabs, put them in the coolest part of the fridge and in freezer about 15 minutes prior to cooking. Heat a very large pot of water with 2 bay leaves, bring to a vigorous boil and cook crabs for 20 minutes. Drain water and set aside until somewhat cooled so you can crack the shell to get the meat from legs and pincers.
Heat 3 tbsp olive oil in a pan. Over medium heat, fry onion and leek until translucent and softened, but not browned. Add celery and garlic and continue to fry for 3 minutes. Add tomatoes, crab meat, tarragon, and saffron. Pour the wine and reduce for 2-3 minutes over high heat. Season lightly with salt and pepper, add a dash of chili or piment d´Espelette and set aside.
Prepare a Béchamel sauce: In a small saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Gradually add flour, stirring with a hand whisk ( I also like to use a fork) to avoid lumps. Pour milk, still stirring until thickened, about 3 minutes (perhaps it´s necessary to lower heat during that time). Add zest from one lemon, and season with salt, pepper, and a dash of ground nutmeg.
Preheat the oven 180°C.
Cook pasta ( I used large shell shaped pasta ) in salted water, drain well and mix with the crab mixture. Transfer in an oven proof dish, pour Béchamel sauce all over and sprinkle with breadcrumbs and grated parmesan (about 2 handfuls of each). Dot with butter and bake for 25-30 minutes.
About how many fresh crabs would I need to yield 200g of crab meat? Crabs are not something I ever cook although I love the flavour.
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Oh my, thanks Nadia, for the question, I forgot to write that: 2 to 3 crabs will do. I had 2 of about 800 g each which resulted in about 200 g , but I used every bit of legs , pincers and torso (my husband did most of the job actually). I´m going to add that to the recipe and update!
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Merci Sabine.
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Again with an amazing , delicious and mouth watering recipe !
bien joué !
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merci bien! summer comfort food…
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That is a feast to dream of 🙂
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was meant to be something like a day at the windy meal in edible form!
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Beautiful! Lucky to have a husband to pick the crab meat from the shell for you, it’s a fiddly job, but worth it. I’m Australian, we all love the beach
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fiddly, oh yes! I´m getting impatient after one pincer, so I´m not predestined for the job 😉
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OMG This looks sooo good!!!
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Truly glad you like it – it´s great summer comfort food!
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Oh no, I haven’t fresh crabs to buy in a long time, now I know what I want. Tinned it is then. Lovely gratin, Sabine, mouthwatering as always. N xx
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It´s the attempt to transform the feeling of a windy day at the beach into a dish 😉
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Perfect, I think. Lucky you, getting live crabs although I am always a little afraid that one crab will fight back and pinch me! Do you have a trick or do you close your eyes as I do?
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Yes, always weak in the knees with bustling food around me!!
Holding them from the back is what I do, a trick from the fishmongers at the poissonnerie – that way they can´t pinch you.
I also freeze them for a few minutes before throwing them in the water (like 15 minutes), so they stop moving, but make sure the water is really boiling vigorously (otherwise it stops bubbling once the cooled crabs are in).
In fact we´re up for another round tonight!! Wish me luck 😉
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Wishing you luck, of course. Barbecue tonight, can’t believe it is our first this summer but finally weather is stable so that you can invite people without planning for torrential downpours, thunder storms and the like. Have fun!
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😉 you too, first one with the babies then!
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yeah
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Perfect. The plates, the sky, the beach, the crab!
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vive la belle France 😉
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This looks so wonderful! I wish I could get real crab where I live. It’s either fake crab or frozen, and it’s just not the same. Great photos!
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thanks, Mimi! I ´ve never tried the recipe with frozen crab, just canned/tinned. Perhaps frozen would work, too?!
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Good to know – I’ve had canned crab once and it was horrible. It tasted metallic. Maybe I need to find a higher quality product!
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This looks delicious. Will Pin and try. I do admit I quake at the thought of boiling and cleaning the crabs, so I tend to buy the meat ready at the fishmongers…
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Yes, I can totally understand. Plus it will save you a lot of time! Please let me know how you liked the dish once you´ve tried!
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Oooohh la laaaa!!
Love everything about this post!!
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So great to hear, Dana! I hope I´ll make it to the seaside again until the weather turns grey soon!
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Yes, colder days are ahead of us now, sadly 😦
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Oooooo I have to try this… I LOVE fresh crab!
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Wonderful! It´s a great dish filled with seaside memories for me!
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